This week's review was written by Jordan Ross of Pasternak Wine Imports in Harrison, New York. Jordan’s academic experience, his passion for wine, combined with his extensive travels to wine regions throughout Europe and South America, have contributed to a series of articles, which have been published in Wine Spectator, Wines & Vines, Global Vintage Quarterly and Practical Winery & Vineyard, and also appear on EnologyInternational.com. Information on Jordan's wine education events can be found at JordanOnWine.com. Cuné is located in Haro, Spain. In 1879, two brothers decided to set up a business in the recently flourishing trade of the wine business. C.V.N.E., Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España (The Northern Spanish Wine Company) or la Cuné, as it is commonly known in Haro, was created.
The Cuné Crianza 2005 is a beautifully elegant expression of Rioja. Rioja today is a produced in a broad range of styles. At one extreme is the modern style - deep in color, made from 100% Tempranillo and aged in 100% new oak barrels, a style that sells well but is hard to recognize as Rioja.
The other extreme is the more traditional blend of Tempranillo, Mazuelo (aka Carignane), Graciano and Grenache aged in older American oak barrels, showing less concentration and fruit but more finesse, complexity, elegance and length. The Cuné Crianza 2005 leans towards the latter style. It has a beautiful color, the 25% Grenache gives it nice perfume, and it is medium-bodied with a slightly chewy finish. A great all-purpose red, highly food-compatible. Retail cost: $14-16. FIND IT!